Browse horse boots that protect the lower leg where work causes the most trouble: the cannon and tendon from strikes, the fetlock from brushing, and the heel bulbs from overreach.
They are part of our wider Horse collection.
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A horse boot is a removable guard strapped to a defined part of the lower leg so that structure takes a strike, brush or overreach instead of bare skin or tendon.
That is different from a rug or saddle pad. A boot only earns its place if it covers the zone at risk for that session. The usual zones are:
Boots use a shaped shell or padded body that stays put with straps, while horse bandages and polo wraps rely on wrap tension and take more skill to apply evenly.
A boot is usually quicker to put on and slower to over-tighten. A wrap can add support around a larger area, but uneven tension, trapped grit or a wet bandage holds heat against the tendon. Choose a boot when you need repeatable coverage; choose a wrap when you can apply it well and will check it during the session.
Open-front tendon boots leave the front of the cannon exposed so a jumping horse can feel a rail, while closed or exercise boots wrap more of the leg for schooling and daily work.
Jumping boots often follow that open-front logic on the forelegs, with a harder strike pad over the tendon. Closed boots trade that rail feel for more brushing cover, which suits flatwork and horses that interfere. Do not treat the two as the same boot with a different name.
Match the boot to the structure at risk: tendon and jumping boots for front-cannon strikes, fetlock boots for hind brushing, bell boots and overreach boots for heel-bulb injuries, and travel boots or float boots for longer coverage on the truck.
Eventing and cross-country days may call for a tougher, more enclosing eventing boot than an arena schooling pair. A jump or event day setup may also include a pad from our saddle pads range, but the pad does not replace leg protection.
Shell stiffness, lining and closure type change how a boot handles impact, sweat and movement. Neoprene and closed linings often hold more heat than a ventilated shell with a secure velcro or elastic closure.
Harder strike plates help when the risk is a rail or stud. Softer brushing bodies help when the risk is repeated rubbing. Fastenings should sit in the same place after a circle; a boot that rotates will rub the tendon even if the size name looks right.
Boot for the session that creates the risk: jumping, heavy schooling, travel, or cold therapy after work with ice boots. Leave legs bare or switch type when boots can trap grit, rub, or snag in the paddock.
Stable or therapy boots are for rest, not for replacing an exercise boot on a gallop. Magnetic and infrared styles are sold for stable use; they are not a substitute for veterinary treatment. Wet sand packed inside a boot will abrade skin faster than working bare-legged for a light session.
Rinse sweat and sand after work, let linings dry fully, and follow the maker's wash instructions. Heat and a washing machine can distort foam and closures if the label does not allow it.
Check straps, binding and lining for hard spots before the next ride. A cracked shell or a stretched elastic strap is a fit problem, not a reason to pull the boot tighter.
A correctly fitted boot sits still without rotating or leaving strap marks, with enough room at the tendons and fetlock for the horse to flex. Sizing names vary by maker, so use each product's own tape points rather than assuming a shared chart.
Pony, cob and full labels are common, but they are not interchangeable across brands. If a boot creeps down, gaps at the strike pad, or pinches at the pastern, change size or style instead of adding extra wrap over the top.
Horse boots protect a chosen part of the lower leg from a specific injury. Tendon and jumping boots cover cannon strikes, fetlock boots cover hind brushing, and bell or overreach boots cover heel-bulb injuries. Travel and float boots cover more of the limb for longer journeys. Pick the zone first, then the boot type.
Not automatically. Boots give repeatable strap-on coverage and are harder to over-tighten. Bandages and polo wraps can cover a larger area, but they need even tension and checking during work. Uneven wraps and wet bandages hold heat on the tendon. Use boots for speed and consistency; use wraps when you can apply them well.
Many jumping horses wear open-front tendon boots on the forelegs so the cannon can still feel a rail, with a strike pad over the tendon. Closed exercise boots cover more of the leg and suit schooling. Hind legs often use fetlock boots instead. Follow your discipline rules and the horse's way of going.
Usually no, unless the boot is made for turnout and fitted so it cannot snag. Exercise and tendon boots can fill with dirt, rub, or catch on fences. Bell boots are sometimes used to limit overreach at grass, but they still need checking. For rest, use a stable or therapy boot only as directed, not an arena boot left on overnight.
The boot should stay in place without rotating, pinching the tendon, or leaving deep strap marks after work. The horse must still flex the fetlock freely. Size names such as pony, cob and full differ by maker, so measure to that product's chart. If the boot creeps or gaps, change size or style rather than over-tightening.
